Waiting for the waves

Have you ever surfed? I’ve body surfed since I was a kid living on the Sydney beaches. But I never actually surfed with a board, though I have often watched, for hours, those who did. Now living in California, I have gone from one surf heaven to another.

It’s an interesting concept, surfing. You might be wondering why I chose the word “concept” over the word “sport”. For the sake of this chapter, I’m going to call it a “concept” because the Art of surfing could almost reveal one of the secrets to life: the ability to wait.